It's been well over a month now since our return from Tuscany, and the memories of that trip are deeply embedded in our minds and hearts. To say We Will Never be the Same, is a phrase too often used, but seldom understood--UNTIL you visit a place like Siena.
We hadn't planned on taking a trip to Siena, but after reading about a medieval city with a UNESCO-listed historic center in the heart of Tuscany, we decided (on a whim) to jump on a train in Florence and go check it out. SIENA is surrounded by a well-preserved 1,000-year-old wall, and is best known for hosting The Palio Horserace which takes place twice a year. Why wouldn't we want to visit a place like that?
At the train station, we met Tom and Leah-- a newly-wed couple from Australia. They were honeymooning all over Italy, and Sienna was to be their last stop. We had a delightful visit with them until the train came. The mad dash for seats on 7 different train cars was an experience in and of itself. We had never seen anything like it, but thankfully Shan and I got seats together and had a wonderful train ride through Tuscany.
The countryside was everything (and nothing) like we imagined it would be. There was an abundance of tall cypress trees planted in long rows, creating a breathtaking view for all the passengers. Several homes had laundry hanging on the line just outside open windows, adding a timeless tranquility to the scenery. It was like a painting. It was breathtaking. It was Tuscany.
Once we arrived at the train station in Siena, we crossed the narrow streets to a small shopping mall. We were starving and ready for a good Italian meal. The line for Toscana Italia was so long, it was an hour wait. That would never do, so we settled on a popular American hamburger joint at the top of the escalator.
When we were sufficiently full of fries, we caught a cab into the walled city of Siena and we were instantly transported back in time. It defied every image we had imagined. We quickly dropped our luggage at the hotel and ventured out onto the streets to discover all the secret alleys of this ancient city. The architecture alone spoke of a forgotten era, and the connection to the past inhabitants felt poignant.
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After exploring the old city streets, with its tunnels and hidden alleyways, we made our way to the city center, the Piazza del Campo , where much of the shops and restaurants were located. As we entered the piazza, we heard someone calling out to us from a patio table. It was Tom and Leah, the newlyweds we had met at the Florence train station. Coincidence or no? I'll let you decide. They invited us to join them for drinks in the open air of the plaza. The setting was magical, and the company even better. We couldn't have staged a more memorable evening if we had tried.
As we walked back to our hotel that night, we mused at all the people on the streets walking and talking. We later learned that this is a rich Italian tradition called La Passeggiata which simply means "The Walk." Each night, the streets are filled with people visiting, strolling, looking in store windows, eating gelato, and unwinding from the day's work. It was as charming as it sounds.
We could hear the distant melody of a lone accordion echoing through the archways. We felt the spell of romance--for this city and for each other as we strolled arm in arm. The younger side of me got caught up in the moment and I wanted to stop and dance cheek to cheek. I entertained the thought for a millisecond before coming to my senses and reminding myself to focus on not tripping over the cobblestones.
The next day, we visited old cathedrals, found St. Catherine's grave, ordered hot chocolate (more like hot pudding) in quaint coffee shops, and met the infamous Anna Rosa-- the 80+ year-old curator of the town's oldest antique shop.
Pushing through the front door of the shop, we entered a deeper level of history than we were accustomed to. An older woman, antique in her own right, stood to greet us and life suddenly slowed to a gentle pace. There was a reverence to this place and to Anna. Her face was etched with lines that told a story of her life's journey. We visited with her while observing the treasures that filled the drooping shelves. We were sure we had never seen antiques this old - ever. There were so many things to look at, it overwhelmed our senses. We left that evening without buying a single antique, but feeling richer for having connected with this woman. I knew we'd be back though--I wasn't leaving Siena without a souvenir from Anna Rosa's store.
Two days later, we were back in Saena Vetus Siena's oldest antique shop. After trying on several costume jewelry rings, Shannon spotted a hidden gem amongst all the tarnished trinkets. It was a ring nestled in a velvet cushion in the locked display case. It looked like a pale ruby, but Anna told us it was a rare pink sapphire and the only one she had ever had in her shop. She explained that the pink stone symbolizes love, truth, and power. She also mentioned that it's delicate color and design indicated it was most likely worn by a member of one of the royal families of ancient Italy.
Oh, she's good! We bought the ring.
What I'd give to know the history of this ring. Who designed it? Who bought it? How much did they pay for it? What did it mean to the woman who received it and wore it? Though I'll never know the answers from the past, I can answer most of those questions today. There is something special about this ring. It's like a secret portal to the past. I will wear it as a reminder of those who have gone before and left a legacy of love, trust, and power. I'm so glad we went back to see Anna. Now I have a physical 'royal' token of the memories made in this medieval city.
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Siena will forever have our hearts. It may be cliche', but it's true...
We Will Never be the Same!!
